Posts Tagged ‘Linoleum’

I am desperate! I rent and my landlord could care less what I do to my home (which is good for me), but won’t pay for it. How do I find cheap flooring (198sq ft) for a kitchen with original linoleum floors over 47 yrs. old? It looks more like a garage then a kitchen floor, that’s how bad it is. I’m obviously not picky, just on a budget of $125 or less.

I have a kitchen floor with linoleum that is over 30 years old. It needs to be replaced quickly and I would like to do it in a way that is most cost effective. I plan on moving in about three years, but want something presentable yet cheap in the meantime. I’m figuring a decent vinyl “wood” flooring would do the trick. I read on homedepot.com that is sticks right over the old flooring and there about 20 reviews (all from people who said it works great and has been like that for several years). My concern is, will it stick to the old linoleum right off the bat? There are some spots where the linoleum ripped off and you can see the wood flooring tile from underneath. Will that cause a dip? Also, what about the edges which are curling up? I suppose I could just trim that off? Thank you for your help!

We are removing the linoleum in our kitchen to install bamboo floors. It came up fairly easy (with just pulling). However, the linoleum backing and glue did stay behind. It appears to be damp and the glue and backing come off pretty easy with a razor blade. It did a moisture test and it came back positive with moisture but only looked like it was at the top of the concrete. Can linoleum hold moisture and if we let it dry out, will we still have a problem later on? I can’t figure out if the moisture is coming from the slab or somewhere else (maybe due to mopping). Thanks!!!

can pretty much have any design at all created with it. It’s in sheet form and say you wanted a star shape in the center of a plain blue background they would do the whole floor in one sheet of blue, cut out the star shape and lay in the star. It’s practically seamless and looks cool.
I want to put that in my son’s room but can’t seem to find it anywhere online.

I find that there is a bump in the middle of my kitchen flooring. It was installed before I moved into my condo. Any ideas on fixing it?

yes, after you remove the carpet, pad, staples, tack strip and back up nails you can put down any floor you want as long as you have a good subfloor to work with and since it is a mobile home you will have to sub floor these areas. you can save a few buck by using particle board instead of plywood the particle board will give you a smoother finish than the plywood you will still have to use a floor patch to float over the seams when the floor is nailed down and you will have to float over the nail holes, 2 times should do it, when you nail the particle board down nail the edges 3 inches apart and the field of the area about every 6 inches, you will want to nail one side and then go side to side so you don’t have any humps in the floor. when you go to by the particle board don’t let them try and sell you tempered hardboard it will not work the same. the glue will not stick to the tempered hardboard. when you buy your vinyl if you are going to have any seams in it like at doorways or in a kitchen make sure they sell you the correct seam sealer for it. if the vinyl is made by armstrong you will need and armstron sealer same goes for congoleum, domco, or mannington brands hope this has helped.

I am installing bamboo hardwood floors in my kitchen, which currently has two layers of linoleum. Can install them over the linoleum or do I have to tear it out?

been trying to find a place where i can go to check out a selection but i noticed that they are actually two different things….whats the difference? and does anybody know of any place where i can go and get a good deal on some for a small room? im in the union county area (north jersey). thanks all

Laminate Flooring: Flooring material that is made up of a laminate or thin layer top, usually of synthetic material that provides the look of wood, bamboo, cork, etc. The inner core is a thick material, usually water resistant, designed to provide stability. Finally, the bottom is usually a backing paper. Laminate flooring is known to be extremely harder, for durability, than conventional laminate countertops.
Vinly and linoleum are hard to define, but they are different. So, for these answers I had to get some information from www.armstrong.com .
Vinyl Flooring: There are two types of vinyl flooring…tile and sheet.
Vinyl Sheet:
“Vinyl sheet is a layered construction sold in 6′ and 12′ widths.
There are two types of construction, typically described by the type of backing:
Felt represents over 90% of vinyl sheet floors sold today.
Fiberglass is a newer construction format. Fiberglass is the “cushiest” form of vinyl flooring and offers the most installation options.
The uppermost layers for both types are identical:
A) Protective top coat: Urethane or other high-performance top coats which make the product easy to clean and resist scratches and scuffs.
B) Protective clear vinyl layer: Adds durability and helps protect against rips, tears and gouges. The thicker this layer, the better the performance. The flooring’s appearance retention and general durability is largely dependent on the quality and thickness of the clear wear layer.
C) Printed vinyl design layer: The rotogravure printing process offers an unlimited range of patterns and designs, including very realistic interpretations of natural materials.
The bottom layers for both constructions differ:
D) Felt: Felt bottom layer that adheres to the subfloor.
D) Fiberglass: A fiberglass structural layer makes the product more dimensionally stable (will not curl, allows it to lay flat, and install without glue). A cushiony vinyl backing provides added underfoot comfort.”
Vinyl Tile:
“Vinyl tile is a composite, layered construction consisting of:
A) Protective wear layer: Urethane and other high-performance wear layers make the product easy to clean and resist scratches and scuffs. Enhanced urethane offers the maximum amount of protection and is priced above regular urethane.
Less expensive vinyl no-wax tile does not have this protective wear layer.
B) Protective clear film layer: This film adds durability and helps protects against rips, tears and gouges.
C) Printed design layer: On this layer, a rotogravure printing process creates the myriad of designs available in vinyl tile. The visuals range from very realistic interpretations of natural materials to original and unique patterns.
D) Vinyl tile backing: This bottom-most layer adds structural strength and durability. Generally the thicker the backing, the more durable the product.”
Linoleum:
“Genuine linoleum, not to be confused with vinyl, is a classic, invented nearly 150 years ago and still completely relevant today. Environmentally preferred linoleum is made from natural, raw materials. Linseed oil, which comes from the flax plant, is the primary ingredient. (In Latin, linum is the word for linseed and oleum means oil.) Other ingredients include wood or cork powder, resins and ground limestone. Mineral pigments provide the rich colors. The ingredients are mixed together, then rolled out between two cylinders (a process called “calendaring”) onto a jute backing. The linoleum is then cured in ovens for 14 to 21 days. The resulting floor is then rolled on cores, ready for installation. Sheet linoleum is available in many thicknesses. 2.0 mm is suitable for residential use. It is sold in a two-meter (or 6′ 7″) width size.
Keep In Mind:
-Unlike most vinyl, which is manufactured with a protective top coat, genuine linoleum does not have a protective layer over the design. Linoleum floors must be polished to get that protective layer, which helps prevent staining. If a stain does occur, strip and reapply polish over that spot.
-Linoleum releases a harmless odor (from the linseed oil) when it is first installed, much like that of a freshly painted room. This odor will dissipate.
-New linoleum sometimes has a yellow cast on the surface, called a “drying room film” that is a natural effect created by the floor’s composition. This film will dissipate when the floor is exposed to natural or artificial light. Make sure you expose linoleum samples to light for a several hours before making your final design and color choice.
-Most linoleum is sold as a sheet product. Linoleum tile is available, but it is more prone to warping and curled edges.”

Linoleum in the older floor. linoleum is a combination of cork, sawdust and linseed oil on a backing. Most time made about 6′ wide. Vinyl is a plastic on a foam back. can be made any width. Both can be inlaid with color going all the way to the backing. Linoleum was the staple for Armstrong, but is no longer made in the USA. Most of the linoleum is now made in Europe. Vinyl is made almost everywhere. Vinyl can be made to be no wax, Linoleum must be waxed to keep it looking good. Of the two linoleum is considered to be the “greenest”. Both contain very small amount of formaldehyde, but linoleum is more biodegradable. Vinyl can be installed on or below grade on concrete. Linoleum can only be installed on grade and on concrete only if steps are take for moisture. Linoleum never curls on the edges vinyl may if not installed properly. Vinyl can have simple or very complex patterns. Linoleum can only be made with simpler patterns or solid colors.